Trims & notes
• 50 cm invisible zip (centre back)
• Skirt hook and bar
• Knit fusible (waistband)
• Woven label (inside waistband)
• Care/content label
• Pleats must be heat-set by the factory before the hem goes in, not pressed by hand at the end. Ask for a pleat-set sample after three home washes before approving the run.
• The 20 cm stitch-down is what stops the skirt reading as a school uniform. Shorter and it flares at the hip; longer and it will not walk.
• Grade the length by 1.5 cm only. Skirt length grades far less than waist, and a proportional grade makes XXL read as a maxi.
• This needs more fabric than it looks: 12 pleats at 4 cm of take-up each is roughly 2.2x the finished sweep. Cost it at 2.6 m per garment, not 1.2 m.
• Specify the pleat direction. 'Knife pleats' without a direction comes back with half the run facing each way.