Trims & notes
• #4.5 brass coil zip, 15 cm (fly)
• 17 L shank button (waistband) + 1 spare
• Fusible waistband interlining
• Pocketing twill (~0.4 m per garment)
• Bar-tack thread, tex 60
• Woven label (inside back waistband)
• Care label (left pocket bag)
• Garment-wash once with softener and stop there. The brief is a workwear pant that is wearable on day one, not a distressed one — the research is explicit that heavy distressing is being phased out, and every extra wash cycle is cost for a finish the market is leaving.
• 10 oz duck is the ceiling for a first run. Above 12 oz the flat-felled seams need a heavier machine and a different needle, and the quote changes line.
• The hammer loop is the garment. It is also the first thing a factory drops as a simplification, so it has a POM-level callout on the flat and a bar-tack spec: through the side seam, both ends, or it tears out with the first load.
• Give the ruler pocket its divider. A single undivided patch is a phone pocket, and the proportions read wrong against the hammer loop.
• A 24 cm leg opening against a 54 cm hip is the straight-leg silhouette. The research says ultra-baggy is losing its default status and skinny has no consumer evidence behind it — do not let a factory 'balance' this to either end.
• Duck canvas is directional after washing. Mark the grain line on every panel and cut all legs the same way, or two legs fade differently.