Trims & notes
• #4.5 metal zip, 15 cm (fly)
• 20L shank button + interior button
• Woven fusible, waistband (~0.1 m2)
• Pocketing, cotton twill (~0.4 m)
• Woven label (inside centre back waistband)
• Care label (pocket bag)
• The barrel is a pattern shape, not a wide leg hemmed in. The outseam has to be drafted with a knee point wider than both the hip and the hem — 30 cm flat at the knee against 26 cm at the hip and 21 cm at the hem. A factory handed a wide-leg block and told to 'taper the ankle' returns a carrot-shaped trouser with a straight outseam.
• Keep the hip within 12 cm of the waist. At 41/52 the outline still reads as a trouser; push the hip past 54 against this waist and the waistband corners and the flat looks like a funnel.
• Flat-fell the curved outseam in two passes. One pass around that much curve either ripples on the outside of the curve or puckers on the inside, and it is visible down the full length of the leg.
• The 2% elastane is there so the knee recovers. This shape puts the knee at the widest point of the leg, which is also where the cloth is loaded when sitting — in a rigid canvas it bags permanently by week three.
• Garment-wash the sample before judging the leg opening. Canvas closes up 2-4% in the wash and a 21 cm opening measured off the press is 20 cm on the customer.